“Light glides differently across a broken line than a straight one.”
Stand in a quiet room with bare floors and you can feel where the pattern should go before you see it. Herringbone and chevron are not just two ways of arranging timber; they change how the room holds light, how your eye travels, how the space feels under your feet. If you are torn between them, you are really choosing between two different rhythms: one that feels grounded and historical, and one that feels clean and directional. They both count as parquet, they both use smaller pieces to build something larger, and they both can work in almost any style. The difference lies in the angle, the joint, and the story you want the room to tell.
With herringbone, the floor feels like a conversation between pieces, short stops and starts where boards overlap and interlock. There is a slight sense of pause at every junction. Chevron, by contrast, is a clear line of arrows, guiding you toward a window, a fireplace, or a long corridor. It feels more continuous, like a path. Neither is strictly better. Design is subjective, but your architecture, ceiling height, natural light, and even how you move through the room will push you toward one pattern or the other.
Picture a long living room with light coming from one end. With herringbone, the zigzag fragments the light, creating small pockets of shadow near each overlap. It introduces texture into the surface, like fabric with a subtle weave. With chevron, the light slips along those continuous V-shapes. The eye reads the floor more quickly, and the room feels more elongated. In a compact space, that directional pull can be helpful or overwhelming. Some clients find it calming, others feel it exaggerates the “bowling alley” effect.
Both patterns work best when they support the architecture rather than fight it. I tend to look at the strongest line in the room first: is it the long wall, the window, the main circulation path? The floor should echo that. With herringbone, that echo is softer, more broken. With chevron, it is clear and direct. The material, plank size, and color tone then either quieten or amplify the geometry.
“Form follows function.”
If you think of parquet as pure decoration, the choice between herringbone and chevron feels cosmetic. Once you treat the floor as a structural drawing on the horizontal plane, the decision becomes more practical. Herringbone grips the space. Its interlocking pattern stabilizes large rooms, especially older buildings with slight irregularities. Chevron, with its sharper, clean meets, suits spaces where you want a strong axis and a more modern read. Both patterns can live happily with minimal furniture and simple walls, which lets the floor become the main graphic statement.
What Actually Makes Herringbone and Chevron Different
The geometry of each pattern
On paper, the difference looks simple: the shape of the plank and the way the ends meet.
“The joint is the detail that defines the character.”
Herringbone uses standard rectangular boards. Each piece meets the side of another at a 90-degree angle, creating that broken zigzag where the end of one board touches the side of the next. The “V” is implied, not cut into the wood. The edges stagger. You get many small, stepped intersections.
Chevron uses boards cut at an angle, often 45 or 60 degrees. The ends are mitered so two boards meet point to point, forming a clean continuous V. The joint is straight. There are no steps, only arrows. This single difference changes the energy of the entire floor.
In practice:
– Herringbone feels more textured and intricate. Your eye notices the overlaps.
– Chevron feels cleaner and more streamlined. Your eye tracks the lines.
In a bright room, chevron reflects light in long strokes. In softer, moody rooms, herringbone breaks it into smaller highlights that sit almost like a woven textile.
Visual rhythm and how your eye moves
Design is partly about guiding attention. Floors have huge influence here because we are always aware of them, even in peripheral vision.
Herringbone creates a series of small directional cues that balance each other out. The pattern points both left and right at each row, so the overall effect is rhythmic but contained. It suits rooms where you want interest underfoot without pulling focus from art, cabinetry, or a view.
Chevron points in one clear direction. All those V-shapes align. The effect is more assertive. If you lay it toward a window, the floor will lead your gaze straight there. If you turn it across a narrow room, you can widen the feel of the space by pulling the eye sideways.
I tend to think of herringbone as a subtle texture and chevron as a graphic line. Once you decide which the room needs more of, the choice starts to fall into place.
Where Each Pattern Works Best
Space, proportion, and ceiling height
Herringbone can be very forgiving with awkward rooms. If your floor plan has alcoves, bay windows, or partial walls, the broken zigzag adapts to those jogs without drawing attention to them. The small steps disguise slight misalignments.
Chevron, with its sharp geometry, prefers cleaner rectangles. It can certainly work in complex plans, but any deviation from square is more visible. In older homes where walls are not perfectly straight, this matters. You will see tiny discrepancies at the borders and walls.
Ceiling height enters the conversation too. In a room with generous height, chevron can reinforce a grand axis: long lines leading you toward a focal point. In lower rooms, that same insistence can feel a bit intense. Herringbone softens things, creating activity at the floor plane that keeps your eye from jumping too quickly to the walls and ceiling.
Style: classic, modern, and everything between
Both patterns sit comfortably in many interior styles, but each has typical associations.
– Herringbone: often linked to old European apartments, Parisian salons, Victorian townhouses. Think tall baseboards, plaster mouldings, and long windows. In a minimal interior, that reference gives warmth and history even when everything else is simple.
– Chevron: often read as more contemporary, especially with longer, slimmer planks in a neutral tone. In mid-century or modern spaces, chevron can speak to clean lines and geometry without feeling cold, as the timber still brings warmth.
If you have ornate wall panelling or heavy ceiling detail, herringbone usually plays more kindly with all that information. If your walls are plain and you rely on a few strong pieces of furniture and art, chevron can become one of those strong elements without fighting anything else.
Comfort, Acoustics, and Daily Life
How the floor feels and behaves
Both herringbone and chevron take the same base material, so underfoot comfort comes more from construction than pattern: subfloor quality, underlay, and plank thickness. Still, the way the boards interlock has some subtle effects.
Herringbone’s alternating pattern spreads movement in different directions. In large timber floors, this can help limit the appearance of long gaps as boards expand and contract. The pattern breaks up those movements. That can be helpful in climates with big humidity swings, though proper installation matters far more than pattern choice.
Chevron’s lines run mostly in one direction. In long runs, seasonal movement can read as slight shifts along those lines. Again, with a good installer and proper acclimatisation, both patterns can age nicely. I tend to worry more about the detail at thresholds and doorways with chevron, so the lines die into borders cleanly.
Acoustically, both patterns are similar, but smaller pieces in parquet can slightly diffuse sound compared with very wide, long planks. If you are sensitive to echo, think about underlay and rugs rather than pattern. Herringbone under a large rug still leaves glimpses of pattern at the edges, which can look refined. Chevron framed by a rug can create a pleasing contrast between the rug’s straight edges and the floor’s V-shapes.
Maintenance in real life
Daily cleaning does not change between the two. The practical difference comes from the number of joints and how visible scratches become.
– Herringbone has many small intersections. Tiny scratches and dents tend to hide among the visual noise of the pattern, especially in mid-toned, brushed finishes.
– Chevron has longer, continuous lines. A deep scratch that crosses the grain may be a bit more visible. In very flat, glossy finishes, this can matter.
For busy households, pets, or rental properties, I often pair herringbone with a matte or satin finish in a mid-tone stain. It masks wear gracefully. Chevron also works in these settings, but I keep the contrast low so the pattern feels softer and less graphic.
Installation Complexity and Cost Considerations
Why herringbone is usually more forgiving to install
Parquet installation is a craft. The cleaner and simpler the geometry, the less it tolerates mistakes.
Herringbone boards are rectangular. They can be cut on site more easily, and small deviations in angle at the walls usually hide within the stepped joints. Skilled installers still snap chalk lines and plan the layout, but the system is slightly more tolerant.
Chevron needs precision from the start. The angle of the cut must be consistent for every board, and the central axis must be exact. Any small misalignment accumulates along those continuous V lines. This increases both labor time and installer stress. Many suppliers now pre-cut chevron boards, which helps, but you still pay for the care needed.
In cost terms, both patterns are generally more expensive than straight plank installation because of labor. Chevron often sits at the higher end of the range, not because the material is always pricier, but because installers may charge more for the exacting layout.
Borders, thresholds, and transitions
One detail that separates a refined parquet floor from an average one is the way it meets walls, fireplaces, and other floor finishes.
– With herringbone, a simple border of straight boards around the room helps contain the zigzag and protect the pattern from looking cut off at the walls. This framed effect feels classic and works especially well in period homes. It also allows you to hide cuts at the perimeter inside the border rather than in the pattern itself.
– With chevron, the border decisions are more architectural. You can run the V’s right into the wall for a sharper look, or insert a border that the chevron dies into. If you have many doorways, think about how those lines will stop and start in each room. A continuous central axis that runs through aligned doorways can be beautiful, but it needs planning.
These decisions affect cost and complexity, but more importantly, they affect how calm or busy the floor feels once furniture arrives.
Material Choices: How Timber, Stone, and Alternatives Behave
Comparing common materials for herringbone and chevron
The same pattern reads very differently in oak versus marble or ceramic. Here is a simple comparison:
| Material | Look in Herringbone | Look in Chevron | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Solid Oak | Warm, classic, slightly rustic if brushed | Sharp, graphic, can be very contemporary | Can be sanded and refinished, ages well, natural variation | Moves with humidity, needs experienced installer |
| Engineered Oak | Stable, similar look to solid, good for underfloor heating | Precise joints, good for long chevron runs | More dimensionally stable, often easier to source | Limited number of refinishes, quality varies by brand |
| Walnut | Rich, dark, very traditional in herringbone | Striking, high contrast pattern in chevron | Luxurious appearance, smooth grain | Shows scratches more, darkens spaces with little light |
| Marble Tiles | Old-world, almost palatial in herringbone | Very bold, strong directional statement | Durable, cool underfoot, reflective | Hard, cold in cooler climates, install is complex and heavy |
| Porcelain Tiles | Practical, works for bathrooms and kitchens | Clean, low maintenance in chevron | Water resistant, many wood-look options | Less warmth than real timber, grout lines matter visually |
| Luxury Vinyl Plank | Cost-effective way to get the pattern | Good for rentals and high-traffic spaces | Resistant to moisture, softer underfoot | Less depth than real timber, lifespan is shorter |
I tend to prefer engineered oak for most residential parquet today. It balances stability, cost, and appearance. If the budget and substrate allow, solid oak in herringbone brings a quiet depth that sits nicely with both minimal and traditional interiors. For chevron, pre-cut engineered boards with a reliable locking system reduce many headaches.
Finish: matte, satin, or gloss
Finish affects how much the pattern broadcasts itself.
– Matte: diffuses light, suits both patterns when you want a softer read. Ideal for spaces with a lot of daylight where glare could be an issue.
– Satin: a gentle sheen that picks up the geometry without making it loud. Works well when you want the parquet to feel considered but not flashy.
– High gloss: very reflective, highlights every joint. In chevron, this becomes quite formal and can verge on showy. In herringbone, it can feel like a traditional grand space if the rest of the architecture supports it.
I rarely specify high gloss for family spaces; it shows scratches and dust faster and can feel slippery. Satin and matte fit better with everyday life while still respecting the design.
Color, Stain, and How Pattern Meets Tone
Light, medium, and dark floors
Color shifts the mood of both herringbone and chevron.
– Light tones (natural oak, pale stains, light stone) work well with both patterns. In herringbone, they bring out the texture gently. In chevron, they keep the pattern from becoming too heavy. They also reflect more light, making small rooms feel larger.
– Medium tones often give the most balanced result. In herringbone, they nod to historic floors without feeling too formal. In chevron, they keep the pattern legible without shouting. This range is often forgiving for dust and minor wear.
– Dark tones push the mood. Dark herringbone can feel like an old library, rich and grounded, especially with soft lighting. Dark chevron is striking and very strong visually; it needs a room that can handle that kind of statement, ideally with good natural light and lighter walls.
If you plan to change wall colors or furniture often, mid to light neutral floors in either pattern give you more freedom. Strong stains or very grey tones can lock you into a narrow palette.
Grain, knots, and character
Parquet patterns interact with the wood’s own pattern: its grain, knots, and color variation.
In herringbone, a bit of natural variation helps the floor feel alive. Small knots, shifts in grain, and subtle color changes reinforce the woven quality. Too much variation, though, can start to compete with the zigzag, especially in small rooms.
In chevron, cleaner boards usually suit the geometry better. Heavy character, large knots, and stark color variation can fight the clean V’s. If you enjoy rustic grain, you can still use chevron, but keep the tone range tight so the pattern remains clear.
I often ask suppliers for photos of installed floors in both patterns with the exact grade of timber being proposed. Even better, a large sample board laid on the floor of the space, viewed at different times of day, can reveal how grain and pattern interact.
How to Choose Between Herringbone and Chevron for Your Space
Start with your architecture
Before falling in love with a pattern on social media, look around your actual room.
– Is the building old or new?
– Are there strong existing lines: beams, long corridors, large windows?
– Are the walls simple, or do you already have heavy detail in mouldings and doors?
A calm, new-build box with plain walls might benefit from the graphic energy of chevron. An older home with lean or slightly imperfect walls might be better served by herringbone, which can forgive and soften those quirks.
“Good floors acknowledge the building they live in.”
If your home mixes eras, you can let different levels use different patterns. Ground floor in herringbone, upper level straight plank, for instance. I am cautious about mixing herringbone and chevron within one open sightline; they argue with each other. If you really want both, keep them separated by a clear architectural break, like a closed door or distinct level.
Think about how you use the space
Furniture layout and circulation matter as much as aesthetics.
– In a busy family kitchen with an open plan, herringbone can act like a textured backdrop. It looks considered but does not fight with bar stools, island geometry, and cabinetry lines.
– In a long gallery-style hallway, chevron helps emphasize the journey. It can pull you toward a framed view or a piece of art at the end.
If you expect to rearrange furniture often, herringbone’s more neutral movement works well. Chevron is like an arrow; it will still point somewhere even when you change the layout. That can be useful if it points toward your best feature, or slightly irritating if it directs attention to a plain door.
Pattern Scale: Plank Width and Length
Small format vs large format parquet
Herringbone and chevron are not just yes/no choices. The proportion of each slat changes the personality.
Short, narrow pieces create a tight, busy pattern. In small rooms, that can feel intricate or fussy, depending on everything else. In very large rooms, tight parquet can feel rich and detailed, especially in herringbone.
Longer, wider pieces feel more contemporary. The pattern reads at a bigger scale. This usually suits open-plan spaces and modern furniture. Chevron in long, slim planks can look especially clean and architectural, while large-scale herringbone feels relaxed and spacious.
A rough guideline:
– Small to medium rooms: medium-format herringbone or chevron so the pattern is legible but not chaotic.
– Large, open rooms: larger-format planks for a calmer read, unless you intentionally want a very traditional small-scale look.
Sample boards are your friend here. Lay them in the actual space, step back, and see how your eye reads the pattern from the doorway and from a seated position.
Lighting and How It Interacts with Pattern
Natural light direction
Light direction strongly affects how you perceive the floor.
If most light comes from windows on one side, running chevron toward those windows leads the eye outward. The V’s will catch light and shadow differently throughout the day, creating a gentle movement. Herringbone laid across the light breaks the beams into smaller highlights, which can feel cozy.
In deeper, internal rooms with limited natural light, I often keep the pattern calm and the tone lighter. Herringbone in a pale oak, laid so the points loosely follow main circulation, helps create a sense of softness. Chevron can still work, but I tend to avoid very high contrast stains that would create strong stripes in low light.
Artificial lighting and pattern
Spotlights, track lights, and wall washers can all exaggerate or soften parquet.
– Strong downlights directly over chevron rows can accentuate the lines and create a dramatic effect. This suits formal dining rooms or galleries.
– Softer, diffused lighting across herringbone keeps the pattern apparent without making it the star.
Think about where overhead lights will land. Light grazing across a floor from a low wall washer can highlight small irregularities, especially in shiny finishes. If your subfloor is not perfect, a matte finish and a more forgiving pattern like herringbone help keep the surface visually calm.
Mixing Parquet with Other Floors
Transitions at bathrooms, kitchens, and entries
Most homes need to mix materials: tile at wet zones, maybe concrete in an entry, timber elsewhere. Parquet has to negotiate these transitions.
With herringbone, cutting a clean, straight line where it meets large-format tile is straightforward. You can use a slim metal profile or timber threshold and let the zigzag run behind it. The border makes the change feel deliberate.
Chevron needs careful planning so that the tips do not die awkwardly into another material. Often a straight border strip between chevron and tile works best. This turns the chevron into a “field” framed by a calm edge.
When planning these changes, draw them on the floor plan, not just on elevations. The relationship in plan is what you will walk across every day.
Common Missteps and How to Avoid Them
Overcomplicating the room
Both herringbone and chevron already bring pattern. Pairing them with very busy wall coverings, heavily patterned rugs, and ornate furniture can make a room feel restless.
If you want dramatic chevron, keep at least one other surface family very quiet: either the walls or the major furniture. If herringbone is quite tight and dark, consider simpler cabinet fronts and plain curtains so the floor stays readable and the room breathes.
I often edit something out once parquet enters a scheme. A patterned rug might become a plain textured one. Wall panel grooves might be simplified. The goal is to let one or two elements lead.
Ignoring the long view between rooms
In open-plan homes, you often see multiple rooms and floors at once. If you switch from chevron to herringbone within one clear axis, the change can feel jarring.
If you plan to use parquet in several areas, map the lines through doors:
– Keep pattern direction consistent where you see straight through.
– If you must rotate the pattern, do it where a wall or joinery visually separates the spaces.
Sometimes, the answer is to use parquet in the main space and simple planks in secondary rooms. That still delivers the character where it matters without filling the whole home with complex geometry.
Read the Room, Then Choose the Pattern
Herringbone and chevron are two ways of drawing on your floor. They sit on a spectrum: from soft, broken rhythm to clear directional line. Both can serve a minimal interior or a more traditional one. The more you read your existing room, the clearer the choice becomes.
Look at the strongest natural line in your space, think about how you move through it, and decide whether you want the floor to ground you in place or guide you along a path. Then choose the material, scale, and finish that support that decision.
“The best pattern is the one that makes the architecture feel inevitable.”